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Little India welcomes you to a unique experience
of Singapore. Here, the heartland of the Indian community is a
cacophony of colours, sounds and scents.
You can find the spiritual interwoven with the material needs
and practices of the people as well as shop for the unexpected
and the unusual. You'll discover an array of Indian silks,
brassware and bangles that will fascinate you. Or simply find
out what goes on behind temple doors.
Follow your nose to excellent restaurants in Little India
serving North and South Indian cuisine. Witness living tradition
when you visit one of the last-known Indian spice grinders and
itinerant yoghurt-sellers.
The possibilities are endless. So take a stroll with us in
Little India. This proposed route will take you about an hour to
get through and a little longer if you linger to soak in the
atmosphere. If you have more time, explore other exciting places
in Little India just outside our main route. Note that on
Sundays Little India can become rather crowded when all the
Indian foreign workers go there to shop, eat or simply catch up
with friends. We hope that after your tour with us, you'll find
yourself coming back to Little India for more. |
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| Chapati |
A flat whole-wheat bread served
with dahl and vegetables |
| Dhosai |
A rice flour and lentil pancake
Gulam jamun Cream cheese balls in syrup |
| Kulfi |
A rich milk dessert with nuts
(Indian ice cream) |
| Paan wallah |
A seller of paan -a preparation
with betel leaf, betel nut, lime and spices |
| Prata |
A crisp-crusty pancake served with
curry gravy |
| Puri |
A deep-fried bread served with
potato curry |
| Samosa |
A triangular snack filled with
potatoes |
| Teh-halia |
Ginger tea |
| Teh-tarik |
Tea, hand-pulled so as to aerate
for flavour |
| Thairu |
Yoghurt |
| Vada |
A savoury lentil doughnut |
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| Ganesha |
The elephant-headed God of Wisdom
and Prosperity, the Remover of Obstacles |
| Kali |
The Hindu Goddess of Power, the
consort of Shiva |
| Kwan Yin |
The Taoist Goddess of Mercy |
| Murugan |
The second son of God Shiva |
| Shiva |
The Destroyer in the Hindu Trinity |
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| Choli |
A short-fitting blouse worn with
the sari |
| Navarethinam |
A nine-gem gold ring,
representing the nine ruling planets |
| Pottu |
A mark worn on the forehead by
Indian women, a symbol of Hinduism and marriage |
| Sari |
Traditional Indian outfit which
is a 6 yard piece of fabric draped around the body of a woman
and tied like a pleated skirt with one end of the fabric
thrown over the shoulder |
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When Sir Stamford Raffles sailed into Singapore
in 1819, with him was an entourage of 120 Indian assistants and
soldiers. These were among the first Indian settlers in
Singapore, and they resided mainly in the area near Chulia
Street in Chinatown, which Raffles had originally designated for
the Indian community. In the late 19th century, many more Indian
migrants came to Singapore to find work, be it to build roads,
clear swamps or to take up key positions in the civil service.
Two major reasons for the influx of Indians into the site where
Little India stands today were the introduction of
cattle-rearing on the fertile land near Rochor River by wealthy
cattle merchants such as Mr Belilios (a Jewish Indian from
Calcutta), and the building of the Race Course for the Europeans
nearby in 1843.
Immigrants from Calcutta, Madras and Malaya flocked here and by
the turn of the century, this area, once covered in gambier,
banana and vegetable plantations, had become a flourishing
commercial centre for the Indian community. Spreading out from
both sides of Serangoon Road, this little enclave of the Indian
community became fondly known as Little India. |
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Across the bus-stop you can This site was once see Little India
Arcade. This cluster of shophouses was conserved in 1982 and
later turned into this bustling shopping haven.
Look out for Handlooms, a sari shop supported by the Government
of India. The sari is actually a single piece of fabric of about
a metre in width and 6 yards in length, draped around the body
of a woman and tied like a pleated skirt with one end of the
fabric thrown over the shoulder. With the sari, the woman wears
a chat;, a short-fitting blouse. Taking a closer look at the
more elaborate fabrics, you will see real gold and silver
threads woven into them. You may even wish to purchase the sari
fabric to be tailored into modern dresses.
Enter from the Serangoon Road entrance and you'll see a
confectionery selling traditional Indian sweets and snacks. Try
desserts like kutfi, a rich milk dessert, or gutam jamun, cream
cheese balls in syrup. For a snack, you can try vada, a savoury
lentil doughnut. But beware of the green chilli which is always
a lot hotter than it looks. In the arcade you'll also find
Ayurved;c medicine shops. Ayurvedic medicine life and "veda":
knowledge) or the "Science of Life" is a very ancient Indian
medicinal practice. You can buy some of these traditional
remedies which are used for different ailments from haemorrhoids
to rheumatism.
Nearby, you can also see the paan wa/fah or betel nut seller.
Mildly narcotic, betel nuts are believed to be good for the
digestive system. Pieces of betel nuts, chopped fine or coarse,
are mixed with lime paste and sometimes other spices. They are
then rolled up in a betel leaf, popped into the mouth and
chewed.
Don't forget to walk into the many Indian craft shops and booths
to discover the exciting mix of carvings, sculptures, brassware
and artefacts. Pause to admire the Hindu images while shopping
for pretty drapes and covers for your home.
At the air-conditioned food court,look' ~~ out for a video
presentation that gives an Don't miss the insightful perspective
on Indian culture through "Arcade's Dollar the eyes of a
prominent Indian doctor. You can Deal" available at even buy a
souvenir copy of the story signs some stalls in the that you
will see placed amongst traditional food court. products in the
arcade to explain their symbolism and values. They are available
at GGS Publications, Books and Stationery at #0 1-03 Little
IndiaArcade or theAsian Women's Welfare Association at No.9
Norris Road. |
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Leave Little India Arcade by Campbell Lane,
turn right and you'll see the vividly colourful flower shops
selling garlands and fresh flowers. Flowers play an
important role in the Indian way of life as they are a
symbol of prosperity. Look at how the garland-makers briskly
weave their red, yellow and white flower creations from
roses, marigolds and the flower of happiness, jasmine. On
Tuesdays and Fridays, the Hindu holy days, gods are honoured
with simple strands of jasmine. But on religiously
significant days, more elaborate strands are ordered and
placed on the deities in the temple and at home. It is also
common to see Indian ladies wearing strings of blossoms in
their hair. |
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Beyond the aromatic flower shops, you will notice a large
brightly painted yellow shop front. P. Govindasamy Pillai & Sons
or "PGP" as it is affectionately known is located here. Founded
by P. Govindasamy Pillai, a patriarch of the Indian community
well-known for his charitable works, the shop is now run by his
sons. Being one of the earliest sari shops in Serangoon Road, it
is now a key landmark in Little India.
To get into PGP, first walk into Kuna's Handicraft Shop where
you'll find a wide range of traditional Indian arts and crafts.
You- will see sculptures tucked away in corners,. T alongside
oil lamps, bangles and peacock feathers. You can certainly pick
up that special souvenir for a loved one here.
Walking through Kuna's will lead you to PGP supermarket,
well-stocked with everything from Indian utensils and sandalwood
incense to spice mixes for fish and meat curries. In fact, these
spices are actually ground fresh at a traditional spice grinder
(we will visit one later in the tour). Don't forget to proceed
upstairs to the sari shop filled with sari, shawls, scarves and
modern garments in both traditional and modern designer fabrics.
Walk through PGP, exit onto Dunlop Street and turn right. Pop
into the different provision and textile shops along this road.
You’ will find not just staples such as rice and sugar but also
a curious variety of products ranging from special Indian
cosmetics such as kohl, henna dyes (for decorating the hands)
and perfumed oils, to terracotta pots for cooking curries. Walk
further down and you will see an interesting mix of textile and
Indian dress shops.
About Dunlop Street
Dunlop Street is one of several roads with European names that
you can find in Little India. In the I 840s, it was a private
road that led from Serangoon Road to the private residence of Mr
A E Dunlop, the Inspector- General of Police. His residence has
since vanished and the road has been taken over by rows of
shophouses. In fact, this used to be a bustling open-air
vegetable street market leading to the mosque further down the
road.
At the junction of Dunlop Street and Clive Street, you can
either make two left turns to the food joints in Upper Dickson
Road (refer to 6) or detour and walk down Dunlop Street to the
next two stop-points -a mosque and a church. |
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Keep walking down Dunlop Street for another 10 minutes and
you'll find on your right the Abdul Gaffoor Mosque, one of
Singapore's 32 national gazetted monuments.
While most Indians are Hindus, some follow the Muslim faith. On
Fridays, many will congregate here for prayers.
Originally a wooden structure built on land leased by Shaik
Abdul Gaffoor bin Shaik Hyder in 1859, the mosque was rebuilt in
brick in 1910. It now features a glass cupola, and an unusual
blend of Arabic and Renaissance Architecture.
When entering grounds of worship, make sure your legs are
covered to the ankles and remember to take off your shoes. Note
that only worshippers are allowed to enter- the prayer hall.
Although the mosque is open all year round, visitors are advised
to refrain I from entering during prayer sessions in the 1
evenings and all day on Fridays.
Just behind the mosque, you're welcome to join the friendly
people at a little snack shop selling Indian Muslim snacks such
as samosas and vadas. Take a short break and enjoy a cup of iced
teh-tahrik," hand-pulled tea" (6.30 am - 12 noon) or teh halia
(3 pm -8 pm). |
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Open only on Saturdays and Sundays between 9 am to I pm, this
1850 Anglican church served the Chinese community of Hock Chew
and Hinghwa descent in Little India.
Walk all the way up the stairs and you'll find a unique
sanctuary with a huge Chinese ideogram for the word "love" above
the altar. Note the Bible verses in Chinese painted onto the
pillars and walls. Interestingly, the names of donors of the
pews are inscribed at the base of the kneelers.
Leaving the church, turn right and walk down Dickson Road to
Upper Dickson Road. |
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As you encounter the countless North -Indian and South Indian
speciality restaurants ~ along the way, you'll know why Little
India is reputed for good food. Here at Upper ) Dickson Road,
there are a number of highly recommended vegetarian restaurants
to suit every budget. At New Woodlands Restaurant you can watch
food being prepared in an open kitchen and savour interesting
items such as Rocket Dosai and Thoiru Vada. Just across the
road, you can experience the first Indian fast food joint in
Singapore called Komalas. If, however, you fancy stepping into
the most established restaurant in Little India, check out
Komala Vilas at No.12 Buffalo Road.
For a different dining experience, have a curry meal with rice
and accompanying pulse dishes piled high on a banana leaf. Your
utensils are your hands and it is polite to eat only with your
right hand and never with the left as the left hand is
associated with uncleanliness. Don't worry -if you need to, ask
for a fork and spoon and of course, a huge glass of lime juice.
Aside from the traditional Indian meals, you may also want to
savour Indian Muslim food in one of the many open-fronted coffee
shops. Try the tasty prata, a crisp-crusty pancake. Catch the
prata maker flipping the paper thin dough into the air with his
hands, before folding it over and tossing it onto the well-oiled
griddle.
About Vegetarianism
Vegetarianism is associated with religious purity. Hinduism
dictates that all animal life should be revered. The cow. in
particular. is highly revered as it is the provider of milk and
transportation and traditionally served man to till his fields.
This respect for animal life led to the growth of one of the
healthiest and tastiest cuisines. Try delicious vegetable and
pulse curries with either white or saffron-flavoured rice. You
can also order delicious Indian breads such as chappatis. flat
whole-wheat bread served with dahl and vegetable. dhosai. a
chewy rice flour and lentil pancake. or puris. deep fried bread
served with curry. |
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Walk back onto Serangoon Road and cross the road at the junction
of Veerasamy Road. Built by indentured Bengali labourers in
1881, this temple is dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Kali, the
consort of Shiva. She is known as the Goddess of Power and the
name "Veeramakaliamman" means "Kali the Courageous". On holy
days (Tuesdays and Fridays), the streets are busy with devotees
on their way to pray. worship and make requests to Kali for
blessings. This temple is closed between 12.30 pm and 4 pm
everyday. Note that women who are undergoing the monthly cycle
are considered "unclean" and are not allowed to enter temple
grounds.
In this temple, the main shrine contains a jet black statue of
Kali, with her sons Ganesha and Murugan on each side. Kali is
represented as having many pairs of arms and hands, and in her
hands she carries the weapons of destruction. Ganesha the
elephant god is best known as the Remover of Obstacles. Murugan
is often depicted as riding a peacock and his birthday is
celebrated by the Thaipusam festival. This spectacular two-day
celebration is held during the full moon of the auspicious Hindu
month of Thai. This usually occurs in late january.
About Hindu Temples
As you enter the gates of the temple, look up at the gopuram or
the tower over the- entrance of the temple. Covered with [
figurative sculptures of gods and goddesses 11 and mythological
beasts, this tower is visible g from afar so devotees can even
say their prayers 1 without stepping inside the temple. Notice
strings of fresh mango and coconut leaves hanging above temple
doors -they are signs of welcome and purity. Do remember to
remove your shoes and leave them outside.
At the door, devotees ask God to grant their requests by ringing
the bells before entering. They also purify themselves by
washing their hands and feet, and sprinkling water on their
heads. Near the door, look out for the aluminium enclosure into
which devotees break coconuts as a symbol of breaking their egos
to reveal their pure and kind inner-selves.
Within the temple compound, remember to walk in a clock-wise
direction and only encircle the temple hall an odd number of
times as a sign of good luck. Look out for the offerings of
bananas (symbol of abundance), mangoes and even sari for the
goddesses at
the shrine.
Notice the use of the lotus, a symbol of human life to the
Hindus, as a decorative motif. As the lotus bud stretches
towards the sun despite its roots being embedded in mud;
likewise man strives for the spiritual despite being rooted
deeply in nature. |
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Coming out of the temple, turn right and carryon down Serangoon
Road. By now you would have noticed the numerous goldsmith shops
along Serangoon Road. Traditionally, Indian goldsmiths were
well- respected as they were also the image-makers of the gods.
Today, many of these goldsmiths are still true Indian craftsmen,
creating jewellery from ancient patterns. However, some of these
shops are run by Chinese businessmen now.
In the shops, you can see navarethinam, a ring encrusted with
nine different gems, each representing the nine visible planets
including the sun and the moon. Usually worn by men, the ring
counteracts the influences of the planets. Interestingly, Indian
ladies buy ear-rings that screw clockwise, a direction
associated with things positive and good by the Hindus. To the
Indians, elephant hair is believed to bring good luck and is
often found embedded in gold rings for both sexes. In fact,
devotees can even buy small silver representations of body parts
and offer them to temples to heal pain in their bodies. The
temples then resell them to fund the temples. |
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Carryon down Serangoon Road until you come to your starting
point - Zhujiao Centre. In Mandarin, the name means "the foot of
bamboo shoots", reminding us of the early bamboos growing in
abundance by the Rochor River. The original produce market that
once stood across here was called Kandang Kerbau Market or K K
Market; the word "kandang kerbau" means cattle pen in Malay, a
reminder of the cattle-rearing days here.
Today Zhujiao Market or K K Market, as it is still
affectionately referred to, bustles with a produce market
selling fruit and vegetables as well as a meat and fish wet
market.
At one end there's a hawkers' centre offering typical
Singaporean hawker fare. Then climb up the stairs to discover
the clothing, brassware and antique stalls on the next floor.
From bed-spreads, tailor- made dresses to quaint knick-knacks,
you'll find virtually everything here.
We have come to the end of the guided tour but this is certainly
not all there is to discover. If you have a little more time,
please do check out the other interesting sites highlighted in
the next section. |
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Race Course Road
If you are looking for a quieter side of Little India. take a
stroll down this road named after the Race Course where Farrer
Park Stadium now stands. Do check out some of the most famous
Indian curry restaurants in Singapore as well as lively pubs
that serve up music with a strong Indian beat. However, the MRT
construction on one side of this road might cause minor
inconvel1ience.
Temples -For a refreshing spiritual experience, take any bus at
Zhujiao Centre and alight after two bus stops to explore this
cluster of houses of worship. Just behind the bus-stop,
you'll find Sri Srinivasa Peru mal Temple (built in 1855).
one of the two Hindu temples in Singapore gazetted as national
monuments. Soak in the serenity and beauty of the vast prayer
courtyard. Noteworthy on the left is the chariot that
ceremoniously carries the deities. and on the right a thu/asi
plant, an auspicious symbol of faith and womanhood, which women
encircle and pray to. This temple is open from 6.30 am to noon
and from 6 pm to 9 pm. Note that women who are undergoing the
monthly cycle must not enter the temple.
At the back of the temple, turn right and walk down Race
Course Road, and you see Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple with
a pair of huge lions at the door. Also known as Temple of 1000
Lights. the 989 lightbulbs surrounding a huge seated Buddha
statue, 50 feet high and weighing 300 tonnes, are switched on
every time a donation is made. At the base of the statue. do
look out for the photographs of temple donors who have passed
on. In a chamber at the back of the statue, you can also find
the image of the reclining Buddha. For 50 cents, you can even
have your fortune told on a wheel on the left of the prayer
hall. This temple is open daily from 7.30 am to 4.30 pm.
Leave the temple, turn right and walk to the last temple
across the road. Built in 1815, Long San Chee Temple or Dragon
Mountain Temple is one of the most beautiful Taoist temples
in Singapore, dedicated to Kwan Yin, the Taoist Goddess of
Mercy. On the right, you can find an altar with the image of
Confucius to which many parents bring their children to pray for
intelligence and filial piety. This temple is open from 6 am to
6 pm.
Mustafa Centre -This three-storey shopping complex is a
must-visit for any bargain-hunter. Check out the computer games,
clothing, cameras or luggage here. Some of the lowest fixed
prices in Singapore are offered here but be prepared for a crush
during sale season.
Colonial Bar -Situated on the left bank of the Rochor
Canal is this unique architectural gem named Ellison Building
which is believed to have been built for a Jewish lady called
Ellison; hence the Star of David at the top of the building. The
two semi-circular domes at both sides were where the British
governors once watched the races at the Race Course on Sundays.
Colonial Bar is actually one of several Chinese coffee shops and
Indian vegetarian restaurants in this building. In fact, it was
once the hangout for the European community when it was set up
in 1924. Look out for the traditional Indian barber at one end
of the building and the Indian magazine stand at the other. |
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